Jun 4, 2014

Plantain Tunic + Leggings = Studio Outfit

Plantain Tunic + Leggings = Studio Outfit



        Most of my time is spent in my studio and when I work I prefer to be comfortable. When I draw or paint I move a lot and when I’m in front of my computer I seem unable to keep both of my feet on the ground (!?) and sit straight on my chair…therefore I like stretchy comfortable, clothes. Sweatpants or leggings and maxi t-shirts are thus my work “uniform”.
        Initially I just wanted to make a t-shirt and thought of trying out the free Plantain t-shirt pattern from Deer&Doe. The thing is, now that I begin understanding what the ƒ¨©º I’m doing I also start treating sewing materials (patterns, fabrics, etc ) the same way I treat other mediums I use like paint, graphite or computers for example. I stop seeing things and start seeing possibilities. Plantain t-shirt became Plantain tunic with a v-neck and pockets.


Studio Outfit


        I cut a 36. They say a 36 is: 84cm bust, 64cm waist, 90cm hips, and if the first two measurements fit me the third one does not as I have 94cm hips. Measuring the pattern thou resulted in a high hip measurement (where they place the hem) actually larger then my hips and I think the bust is actually smaller. I copied the hemline on a piece of paper (as it was for the size 36), moved it down in parallel with the original one, to the hem length I wanted for my tunic and redrew the side seam. The rest I did not modify - the pattern general shape I mean.






        I designed a v-neck, some pockets, customised the length of the sleeves and used satin bias tape (store bought) to embellish them. The pockets, although cannot carry very heavy stuff (the knit fabric does not offer much support after all) are nevertheless very useful - tissue paper, bits of drawing charcoal and other small things have already found a home inside :).


Plantain V-neck




        Lots of people say they just love the Plantain and they’ll make it like a million times. I won’t. Is not that I do not like how it turned out is that it is not right for me. I don’t really like the armhole shaping on me and I think there’s too much fabric around the upper chest, not the bust where there’s too little but the upper chest - at least for someone on the skinny side like me. It would take me less to design my own than to modify this one. Having said that the pattern is nice and I've seen it work so well on so many other body-shapes - I envy those people!

        The leggings are the Burda Lace Leggings. I only shortened them a bit (capri pants length) and nothing else. I find the fit on them amazing and I think they are the best pair of simple leggings I own.


Burda Leggings


        I made both, the tunic and the leggings, out of the same piece of light to medium cotton jersey 210cm wide, 120cm long. I dyed the leggings black after sewing them… otherwise I would have looked like a Christmas elf minus the red stripy hat!



Thank you for visiting. I would love to hear your opinion.

Tunica Plantain + Leggings = Abbigliamento da Studio



        La maggior parte del mio tempo lo passo nello studio e quando lavoro preferisco essere comoda. Quando disegno o dipingo mi muovo tantissimo e quando sto di fronte al computer sembro incapace di tenere tutti e due i piedi per terra (!?) e stare dritta sulla sedia … perciò preferisco vestiti confortevoli in tessuti stretch. Pantaloni da tuta o leggings e maxi t-shirt sono la mia “uniforme” da lavoro.
        Inizialmente volevo soltanto cucire una semplice t-shirt - il cartamodello gratuito della t-shirt Plantain di Deer&Doe. Il fatto è che visto che sto iniziando a capire che ©å∑∑ø sto facendo sto anche iniziando a trattare i mezzi impiegati (cartamodelli, tessuti, ecc. ) come qualsiasi altro mezzo espressivo che uso come le matite, i colori o i computer per esempio. Non vedo più cose ma possibilità. Il t-shirt Plantain diventa così la tunica Plantain con scollo a V e tasche.


Studio Outfit


        Ho tagliato una 36. Nella tabella delle misura danno la 36 come 84cm di busto, 64cm di vita e 90cm di fianchi. Se le prime due misure mi vanno bene la terza no perché la mia e 94cm . Misurando il cartamodelli mi sono accorta però che la lunghezza della linea dell’orlo (che loro piazzano all’altezza addome) superava di molto i 94cm. Ho copiato la linea dell’orlo e lo spostata in basso in parallelo all’originale fino a dare al capo la lunghezza che desideravo e poi ho ridisegnato la linea dei fianchi. Non ho modificato nient’altro - mi riferisco alle linee generali del cartamodello.






        Ho disegnato uno scollo a V, delle tasche, personalizzato la lunghezza delle maniche e usato del nastro sbieco in raso (comprato in negozio) per abbellire tasche e scollo. Le tasche anche se non adatte per cose pesanti (il tessuto a maglia non offre molto supporto dopotutto) sono comunque molto utili - fazzoletti, pezzettini di carbone da disegno, pastelli ed altre piccole cose ne hanno già trovato dimora :).


Plantain Scollo a V




        Tantissima gente dice che ama il Plantain e che lo rifarà un milione di volte. Io no. Non è che non mi piace come è venuto e solo che non è il cartamodello adatto per me. Non mi piace molto il giromanica e trovo che - almeno per me che sono sul magro - c’è troppo tessuto attorno alla parte alta della gabbia toracica, non il busto dove anzi c’e troppo poco ma la gabbia toracica. Starei di meno a disegnarlo dal inizio che a modificare questo.

        I leggings sono i Burda Lace Leggings. Li ho solo accorciati un pelino (a modo capri) e niente più. Si adattano perfettamente al corpo e penso sia il mio miglior paio di leggings!


Burda Leggings


        Ho tagliato sia la tunica che i leggings da lo stesso pezzo di tessuto a maglia leggera in cottone, 210cm largo 120cm lungo (costo 15 euro circa). Ho tinto i leggings di nero dopo averli cuciti altrimenti mi sarebbe mancato solo un cappello a punta e strisce biacco e rosse per fare l’elfo di Natale!



Grazie della visita. Mi piacerebbe moltissimo sentire la vostra opinione.

23 comments:

  1. che belli i leggings ti stanno molto bene ^_^

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    1. Grazie! Sono meglio di tutti i miei RTW :)

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  2. I love the binding on the neck and pockets!! how did you do them??

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    1. Tanks Tasha! For both I opened the binding and then folded it again in two. For the neckline I sandwiched the strip thus obtained between the jersey neckband and the right side of the neckline edge accounting for the different widths and stretch factors. Sewed, turned closed the point and topstitched. For the pockets the method is completely different, they do not have the same jersey band. To make them I stared at some luxury RTW (Prada I think) that used the same finish until I figured it out and it is a bit too complicated to be described here. Sorry :( But if enough people are interested in them I could make a tutorial or something ....

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    2. You sandwiched it between what? Is only the teal the binding? What is the black behind it? sorry to be asking so many questions but it's so interesting.

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    3. No worries! There is nothing black behind...I think you see the shadow (take a look at my flickr stream https://www.flickr.com/photos/113866088@N08/ - you might see things a bit better)
      In the neckline you sew together three pieces: the bodice (main fabric) and the neckband (same fabric as the bodice), right sides together and the bias strip (teal satin) between them ... like pipping but wider - that is why you must account for the various stretch factors otherwise it doesn't lay flat (I actually steam pre-shape the binding - learned to do it on making the linen top). The whole thing is a variation of the banded V-neck on knit technique. I hope this is of some help to you :)

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    4. Ohhhh! I wasn't even thinking about the neckband! Thank you!

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  3. I can see what you mean about too much fabric in the back, but I think the front looks absolutely lovely! I love the details you added with the satin bias too, it adds just enough visual interest.

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    1. Thank you Clemence! I kinda have a skinny arched back, the line of the garment is loose and the fabric is light so the lower back is to be expected ... is with the upper part that I have a problem :-?

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  4. i really like the silhouette of that top on you, you should totally make your own version with same silhouette and improved fit.. i made my only plantain with so many changes, and in totally different fabric than recomanded, that i don't really know what a normally sewn one would fit on me (also, don't really think i'll give it another go, i'm not really a tshirt kind of a gal.. but yeah, on lots of other girls plantains look lovely)..
    and i share your love for burda lace leggings pattern, made dozen of them so far, and love every single pair

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    1. Thank you! It is more than likely I will design my own ... I wear lots of knits, my lifestyle sort of "requires" it. What I love most about this leggings pattern is that it has no excess fabric in the crotch area!!!

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  5. Ciao Sasha! Io il tuo completo lo trovo molto grazioso. Ho cercato però di guardarlo attraverso i tuoi occhi e forse ho capito cosa non ti convince. Il giro manica davanti forse più incavato (quello dietro non riesco a distinguerlo dalla foto). Per l'eccesso di stoffa sul busto bastava sfiancare un po' sui lati del cartamodello all'altezza della vita, o ridurre l'ampiezza del bordo inferiore per poi riaggiustare le linee laterali; modifiche fattibili anche dopo aver provato il capo unito da imbastiture (cioè prima delle cuciture a macchina). Tutto questo però ostinandosi a voler esser perfezioniste............perché ribadisco, io lo trovo bello così!
    PS: A me gli elfi piacciono tanto!! :)

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    1. Grazie Elisabetta! Hai capito perfettamente il mio problema!... purtroppo e un problema che spesso ho anche con le cose che compro :( (una delle ragioni che mi ha spinta a cominciare a cucire)! Con tutte le modifiche (anche incavo e colmo manica) del cartamodello originale sarebbe rimasto si o no un 20% ... mi converrebbe forse disegnare un cartamodello mio... :-?
      PS: anche gli elfi ringraziano ;)

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  6. Very nice studio outfit! The leggings look perfect! For the top, I generally have the same problem with almost all tops in the upper chest area. Even though my shoulder are wide, my upper chest caves in a bit. I think it might be worth it for you to experiment with fitting that area because you're likely to run into the same problem with other patterns. I usually take a tuck across the upper front and cut the front armscye a smaller size. Then you might need to add to the front sleeve cap, but maybe not, because you have dainty shoulders. There are many variables in fitting that area. I think shoulders are just as complicated as pants. Comparing to a top that fits you might also help :)

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    1. Thank you Sara! I'm glad you like it! I totally should and I will experiment with fitting the upper chest! ...and you are so right, as this experience has taught me the shoulder area is very very important ... after all the whole garment hangs on the shoulders!

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  7. ... Ma lo sai che spesso a me i leggins mi stanno stretti in alcuni punti e larghi in altri!!! Farseli su misura e' la soluzione!!! Ad esserne capaci ovviamente :-) tu ci sei riuscita alla grande!! Li immagino comodi comodi... Proprio brava !!! Smack! Simo

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    1. Grazie Simo!... I leggings sono veramente comodi (comparabili con i pilates leggings di Dimensione Danza che ho)... tutte le volte che mi servirà un paio di leggings penso rifarò questi ;) ... un bacione ... xoxo

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  8. ciao sul mio blog c’è un premio per te http://ilvolodiunafarfalla.blogspot.it/2014/06/lovely-blog-award-2014-rosa-dellamicizia.html

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  9. Both the top and leggings look lovely on you! I really like the neckline and the tunic length!

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    1. I'm really glad you like them ... Thank You!

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