Jul 16, 2014

Make It Work Michelle!

Make It Work Michelle!



        Since seeing Sara’s take on the Burda Michelle Skirt I’ve wanted one… in linen.




        Because I have only 30-40cm strips of linen cut grainwise (the same I used for the Linen Knee Pants and the Linen Top) I had to find a solution to the width problem …to “make it work” - as would Tim Gunn say (…my latest entertainment during sewing being watching Project Runway DVDs).


Burda Skirt


        Another problem I had to face is finding a way to bypass some of the intrinsic characteristics of linen. The linen I use deforms on crossgrain an insane amount and in a skirt with a style not exactly fitted and not exactly loose as this one when you sit it would stretch a lot… I was afraid that when you stand up then would sag creating an unpleasant “baggy wrinkled cloth” effect and I’m into sustainable fashion not homelessness.

        It took some pattern slashing and around 6 meters of bias tape of various sizes to solve both my problems (width and structure).


Burda Michelle


        The bias tape (cotton … I couldn’t find a finer one so I had to make do) acts very much like boning giving the whole thing some structure and rigidity.


Burda Michelle


Burda Michelle


        I love the way it moves! My nephew kept trying to make me twirl.




Linen Skirt


        RECAP
        Pattern: Burda Michelle #8090
        Fabric: raw linen
        Haberdashery: cotton bias tape, zipper
        Mods: pattern alterations to suit the fabric width, lowered the waist band (in hindsight I should have lowered it less…obviously it stretched during sewing)
        Making of on Instagram


Burda Michelle


        Did I manage to “make it work”? I’ll let you be the judge of that!



Thank you for visiting. I would love to hear your opinion.

Make It Work Michelle!



        Da quando ho visto la Gonna Burda Michelle cucita da Sara ne ho voluto una… in lino.




        Dato che ho solo delle strisce da 30-40cm di lino tagliato in altezza (lo stesso lino che ho usato per i Pantaloni e per il Top in Lino) ho dovuto trovare una soluzione …ho dovuto “farla funzionare” . Fallo funzionare! ( in inglese Make it Work )è una delle frasi preferite da Tim Gunn in Project Runway (…ultimamente mi diverto a guardare i DVD di Project Runway mentre sto cucendo).


Gonna Burda


        Un altro problema che ho dovuto affrontare è stato quello di superare alcune delle caratteristiche intrinseche del tessuto. Il lino che sto usando si deforma tantissimo in larghezza perciò in una gonna come questa, non esattamente aderente e non esattamente ampia sui fianchi, quando siedi perde la sua forma e poi diventa improponibile sopratutto da dietro - a me sta a cuore l’idea della moda sostenibile non di sembrare una senza tetto.

        Ci sono voluti un paio di tagli sul cartamodello e circa 6 metri di nastro sbieco per risolvere entrambi problemi (larghezza e struttura).


Gonna Burda


        Il nastro sbieco (in cottone … ho cercato uno in un tessuto più fine ma nella mia città è introvabile perciò mi sono dovuta accontentare) si comporta in una maniera molto simile ad una ossatura (penso il termine inglese “boning” si traduca con ossatura … non ho la più pallida idea).


Gonna Burda


Gonna Burda


        Mi piace moltissimo come si muove. Mio nipote insisteva nel farmi girare.




Gonna Lino


        RECAP
        C.M.: Burda Michelle #8090
        Tessuto: lino grezzo
        Merceria: nastro sbieco in cottone, cerniera lampo
        Mod: modifiche sul cartamodello per accomodare la larghezza del tessuto, ho abbassato la vita (con il segno di poi forse un po troppo perché ovviamente si è allargata mentre la cucivo).
        Making of su Instagram


Gonna Lino


        Sarò riuscita a farla funzionare? Lascio a voi il compito di giudicare!



Grazie della visita. Mi piacerebbe moltissimo sentire la vostra opinione.

19 comments:

  1. This is terrific! I love what you did with it. Proof that having to deal with practical limitations can cause us to make things even better, more creative. The white tape gives it an almost inside-out look which is very cool!

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    1. Thank You Sara! I could have just sewn some strips together make a big square and cut my pattern but what's glamorous in that ?... so I went for the more creative (I think) inside-out look :)

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  2. Oh it's beautiful! You really did make it work :)

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    1. Thank You Sarah !!!... I'm so glad you like it :)

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  3. I love how you used the bias tape, I may have to borrow your idea to use with some raw linen I have in my stash.
    Www.calascrafts.blogspot.com

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    1. Hi Vicki ... I'm trilled you like it ... to see more construction details if you are interested check my Instagram ... Hope to see you again on my corner of the internet :)

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  4. Wohooo this is a really beautiful skirt, you have demonstrated the ultimate in understanding fabric and its personalities! by constructing what can only be said as a contemporary couture look, well done you!

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    1. I was out at dinner when I got your comment and reading it made me actually glow ... I couldn't explain it to the puzzled faces around me cause only three or four people know about my sewing and my blog - It's sort of a secret identity of mine, I'm a superhero in my own head ;) - so I mumbled something, buried my nose in my plate and felt good for a while. Thank you!

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  5. Pure perfection. I wish I had more words for my admiration for you and this skirt..timeless art, it will stay..too beautiful. Only I am kinda of okay with homeless style for some unknown reasons maybe it is a physiological problem of mine:P

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    1. OMG I missed you... what have you been up to ... hope to read it in your next blog post! I'm thrilled you like it... homeless chic is maybe different than being mistaken for an actual homeless person ... :(

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  6. Wow - again! Wonderful work :) you are such a smart lady - your idea is/was genious :D with the bias tape. What I love most: the light colours matched with a more stable/stiff pattern - do you know what I mean? Love the beautiful pictures!

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    1. Hi Lea ... so good to see you again :) and yes I think I know what you mean ;)

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  7. wow! I think the white bias works wonderfully with the linen. such a fresh summery look :-)

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  8. Your skirt is so beautiful! I like the bias tape effect :) Nothing can beat a cool skirt!

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    1. Thank you ... glad you like it :)

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  9. Non amo molto il lino ...ma questa gonna è davvero bella!

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