Sep 4, 2014

Burda V-Neckline Dress

Burda V-Neckline Dress




Burda V-Neckline Dress


        This post should be better entitled “The Tortured Dress”. Let’s start with the fabric. It’s a light Dolce&Gabbana viscose knit with a soft hand and a slight shine. Because when I asked for 2 meters they asked for a kidney in exchange, I had to settle for the 1.5 meters my budget could take. The pattern - Burda V-Neckline Dress 09/2012 #124 calls for 1.70m of fabric so I figured I would make it sleeveless. The instructions are minimal. Because of the construction of the neck and waist bands you have to sew it almost all together to be able to fit it.


Burda V-Neckline Dress


        I used clear elastic on the shoulder seams and the outer edges of the neck and waist bands to stabilise them and get them to lay flat.
        By mistake I cut the neckbands (made out of interfaced black viscose knit) on crossgrain and didn’t realised it until they were attached. I had to start all over again. Picking apart serged edges on light knit fabric must be the "dream" of every sewer.
        Matching the black bands at the side was a trial and error process and had to be done using hand basting.




        The 40cm side zipper was to stiff for the fabric and interfered with the drape of the skirt so I took it down and put in a 25cm invisible zipper that hits just bellow the waist.
        When the bodice and the skirt were pretty much finished I realised that the dress needed the long sleeves. Without them the proportions were all wrong and it looked old somehow. There was no way I could cut the sleeves from the fabric I had left so decided to split the sleeve pattern vertically in three and glue the underarm parts together so I was left with two pattern pieces (the one with the sleeve cap longer and the one with the underarm part shorter) that I could fit on my scraps of fabric. The fabric print helps concealing the seams on the sleeves. When trying to attach the sleeves I discovered that the ease in the sleeve caps was huge and there was no way I could modify them so puffed sleeves it is. Basted the sleeves in place tried it on … terrible fit… took them down … deepened the front armhole curve … by mistake basted them back to front … tried them… perfect fit. I decided not to insist further.




        Pattern: Burda V-Neckline Dress 09/2012 #124
        Main Fabric: Light 97% viscose, 3% elastane knit
        Contrast Fabric: Viscose knit
        Notions: Stretch fusible interfacing, 25cm zipper, clear elastic
        Mods: Whatever it took to get this @%&°§ done


V-Neckline Dress


Now that the summer is almost gone I went and sewn myself a summer dress… Luckily it has long sleeves, let’s call it an end of summer dress.



Thank you for visiting. I would love to hear your opinion.

Vestito Burda con Scollo a V




Vestito Burda con Scollo a V


        Questo post dovrebbe essere intitolato “Compromessi ed Errori”. Cominciamo dal tessuto. E’ una maglina leggera in viscosa stampata Dolce&Gabbana con una mano molto morbida. Quando ho chiesto 2 metri mi hanno chiesto in cambio un rene perciò mi sono dovuta accontentare del metro e mezzo consentito dal mio budget. Il Cartamodello - Vestito Burda con Scollo a V 09/2012 #124 richiede 1.70m di tessuto, di conseguenza, per farmi bastare il mio metro e mezzo ho pensato di realizzarlo senza maniche. Le istruzioni sono minime - stile Burda. A causa della costruzione del collo e della vita bisogna confezionarlo quasi tutto per poterlo adattare.


Vestito Burda con Scollo a V


        Per stabilizzare le cuciture delle spalle e lo scollo ho usato del nastro elastico invisibile Framilon da 8 mm - aiuta anche a mantenere piatto e aderente al corpo il bordo dello scollo.
        Per sbaglio ho tagliato le fasce del collo (in maglina di viscosa nera stabilizzata con fliselina a maglia) perpendicolari al drittofilo e non mi sono resa conto del errore finche non erano già cucite. Ho dovuto cominciare il tutto da capo. Disfare cuciture fatte con la tagliacuci su maglina leggera dev’essere il “sogno” di ogni sarta.
        Far combaciare i bordi neri sui lati è stato un processo del tipo prova-riprova in quale sono stati coinvolti metri interi di imbastitura a mano.




        La chiusura a lampo (sulla laterale) da 40cm era troppo rigida ed interferiva con il drappeggio della gonna quindi l’ho tolta ed ho usato una cerniera invisibile da 25cm che arriva appena sotto la vita.
        Quando il corpetto e la gonna erano quasi finite e cucite assieme mi sono resa conto che il vestito aveva bisogno di maniche. Senza maniche (lunghe) le proporzioni erano sbagliate ed il vestito aveva un aria “vecchia”. Non ci fu verso di tagliare le maniche in un unico pezzo con i pochi resti di tessuto a mia disposizione dunque ho deciso di dividere il cartamodello in tre strisce ed incollare due pezzi lungo la cucitura originale. Ho ottenuto in questo modo delle maniche composte da due pezzi che sono riuscita a tagliare dalle strisce di tessuto rimaste. La stampa del tessuto aiuta a nascondere le cuciture delle maniche - una davanti ed una dietro. Quando ho provato a cucire le maniche al corpetto ho scoperto che avrei dovuto misurare prima l’incavo. Il colmo manica includeva troppa lentezza per il mio tessuto. Essendo impossible tagliarle nuovamente mi sono dovuta accontentare di maniche “leggermente a sbuffo”. Ho imbastito le maniche… ho provato il vestito … stavano malissimo… le ho tolte … ho allargato l’incavo davanti … per sbaglio ho imbastito le maniche avanti-dietro … provato … benissimo .. deciso di non insistere sul perché e come.




        C.M: Vestito Burda con Scollo a V 09/2012 #124        
        Tessuto: maglina leggera 97% viscosa, 3% elastam
        Tessuto a contrasto: maglina viscosa
        Merceria: fliselina in maglia, cerniera invisibile da 25cm, elastico invisibile Framilon
        Mod: tutto quello che ci è voluto per uscirne a capo di questa …(sfilza di parolacce non riproducibili in scrittura)


Vestito con Scollo a V


        Con l’autunno alle porte mi sono cucita un vestito estivo. Per fortuna ha maniche lunghe… chiamiamolo vestito di fine estate.



Grazie della visita. Mi piacerebbe moltissimo sentire la vostra opinione.

31 comments:

  1. I really love you dress! I'm not sure how you went about unpicking your serged seams, however after reading this really helpful post from scruffybadger i've only had minimal problems with unpicking serged seams
    http://scruffybadgertime.co.uk/2014/03/overlocker-tips-unpicking-seams/

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    1. Thank you Jennifer! Very interesting! I'll certainly keep it mind :)

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  2. I love this dress on you, it is relaxed yet elegant- I think it is worth the trouble it gave you!

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    1. Thank you Eirini! By next summer when I'll get to wear it again, all the trouble will be forgotten and I'll really enjoy it ;)

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  3. I really love how your dress turned out! The fabric is great :) All the troubles you had with making the dress are not visible on the photos :) Everything looks perfect :) Now I can't wait to find the fabric for another version of that Burda dress ;)

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    1. Thank you Tea! The fabric feels amazing against the skin... I'm so pleased with it! I've seen yours on Burdastyle ... lovely!!!

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  4. I love your dress! Thanks for drawing my attention to this gorgeous, flattering style. I might copy you ;)

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    1. It would look amazing on you Sara !!!

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  5. It's so lovely, despite it's difficult genesis! How awful is unpicking knits? It's a triumph and your photos look warm and beautiful!

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    1. ... the end of summer sun has a special kind of warmth ... I was so lucky to manage to photograph it that day...since then it's been only grey skies and rain :(

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  6. The dress looks very beautiful! from whatever overlocked seams I had to unpick from RTW clothes, I can only imagine your frustration. But the result is once again great, despite the problems and I think this cut suits you very much

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    1. Thank you so much Billie :) Frustration indeed .. punctuated by some not very ladylike words ;)

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  7. Bellissimo vestito lo adoro ^__^ Poi questa fantasia mi piace tantissimo...
    Mi piacerebbe acquistare una tagliacuci tu quale utilizzi? Ti trovi bene?

    p.s. anch'io sto ancora confezionando abiti estivi sono rimasta un po' indietro =)

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    1. ... Grazie Sara! Uso una Bernina 700D e mi trovo benissimo ... e un modello "base" ma il suo lavoro lo fa alla grande!
      p.s. si chiamano "pezzi d transizione" una transizione molto lenta ;)

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  8. It's really a beautiful dress and doesn't show all the trouble you had with it, so congrats!!! The fabric looks amazing and the fit is perfect. It will be lovely for fall (and with boots it would look great!).

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    1. Thank You so much Pauline! I'm so glad you like it! This cut would indeed look really good with a pair of knee high boots :)

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  9. Produrre quest'abito è stato praticamente come partorire :)
    Comunque sia il risultato ripaga degli sforzi, davvero notevole!
    Sono senza parole.....................stupende anche le foto!

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    1. Meno male non ci sono voluti i nove mesi ;) !!! Grazie mille Elisabetta :D

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  10. Exudes your exquisite styling perfectly, unless you'd shared these difficulties no one would ever know - wonderful :)

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  11. Looks amazing! I hope to find a pattern for that type of dress too. I browsed some of your earlier posts too and started to follow you on Google+ ! I wish you some more warm days for wearing that new dress :)

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    1. Thank you Salla! I love your taste for colour!

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    2. Sei simpaticissima mi ritrovo tantissimo nei tuoi tentativi ma la differenza sta nel tuo meraviglioso risultato, complimenti. Miriam

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    3. Grazie Mille Miriam ... sei troppo gentile! Grazie della visita e spero di rivederti presto :D

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  12. Malgrado i problemi il risultato è notevole, bella la maglina e anche il vestito.
    Sabrina

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    1. Grazie Mille Sabrina e grazie della vista :) !!!

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  13. I earmarked this dress ages ago and completely forgot about it. You did an amazing job with it despite all those niggly issues and I absolutely love your fabric choice. It looks a million dollars on you, so you can rest easy at whatever you paid for it!

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    1. Thank you ... the only regret I have is making it too late and not getting to wear it as much as I would have wanted to!

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