Nov 13, 2014

A Camí with an accent!

A Camí with an accent!



        Finally I got around photographing the Camí Dress I finished and wore the last day of the Abilmente Fair. Had to do it indoors because for the last two weeks we had nothing but rain around here and before I just couldn’t find the time to do it :(.

        Hope you like it (despite the photos) cause I love it!


Cami Dress


        The idea was making a fall/winter version so I used a viscose ponte knit. Because of the stretchiness of the fabric I had to grade the pattern down two - three sizes from my base (36). I used a black stretch silk satin for the cuffs, collar and button placket. The button placket is more stable than the back so the back waistline stretched more in length due to the weight of the skirt, compared to the front so the back waistline results lower than the front waistline - maybe I should have compensated for it.


Cami Dress Cami Dress


        What I found most difficult about sewing this dress was gathering and attaching the skirt even though I reduced the fulness by about 30cm - the ponte it’s quite bulky! On the plus side it totally doesn’t need a zipper.


Cami Dress


        I love the pockets - how come they ended by being too low remains a mystery!!!


Cami Dress Cami Dress Pauline Alice


        Because black on black did not reflect my spirit at the time I felt I needed to give it a pop and added a “very Valentino” collar. I cut the flowers with the cheapest paper puncher I could find in the fair even if the lady that sold it to me was skeptical about it! I guess the quality and thinness of the leather (italian leather purchased in the Fair from these guys - they only sell leather at fairs and Nicoletta from dinuvoledicuori found their booth , thank you Niko) made it possible to use the paper puncher after all. I then sewed them onto the collar with the sewing machine and black thread.


Leather Collar


Leather Flowers


Leather Flowers


        Two words about the pattern: love it!

        RECAP
        Pattern: Camí Dress by Pauline Alice Patterns
        Fabric: viscose ponte knit, stretch silk satin and lining for the pockets.
        Notions: 6 mother of perl buttons, fusible interfacing, leather
        Mods: I compensated for the stretch, for my height and forward shoulder, reduced the skirt fulness, eliminated the zipper closure, embellished the collar and oh… fiddled with the length.


Cami Dress


        Quick question: where do you think I should wear this dress?



Thank you for visiting. I would love to hear your opinion.

L’accento su Camí!



        Finalmente sono riuscita a fotografare il vestito Camí che ho finito e indossato l’ultimo giorno della Fiera Abilmente. Alla fine ho dovuto fotografarlo all’interno per via delle piogge incessanti delle ultime due settimane e prima semplicemente non sono riuscita a trovare il tempo :(.
        Spero vi piaccia (nonostante le foto) perché io lo adoro!


Cami Dress


        L’idea era di cucire una versione autunno/inverno perciò ho scelto un punto milano in viscosa. A causa dell’elasticità del tessuto ho dovuto ridurre di due - tre taglie rispetto alla mia taglia base (36). Ho usato un raso stretch di seta per i polsini, il colletto ed il cannoncino. Visto che il cannoncino è più stabile della schiena, la linea della vita posteriore si è allungata di più con il peso della gonna e risulta più bassa rispetto alla linea della vita anteriore - forse avrei dovuto pensarci prima e compensare.


Cami Dress Cami Dress


        La parte più difficile nel confezionare questo vestito è stata decisamente unire la gonna anche se ne ho ridotto l’ampiezza di circa 30cm - il punto milano e piuttosto voluminoso come tessuto. Come punto positivo non ho dovuto montare la chiusura lampo.


Cami Dress


        Adoro le tasche - come mai sono finite così in basso rimane un mistero!!!


Cami Dress Vestito Cami


        Dato che il nero su nero non rifletteva al momento il mio stato d’animo ho deciso che aveva bisogno di un accento di colore e aggiunto un colletto “very Valentino”. Ho ritagliato i fiorellini con il più economico punch per carta che sono riuscita a trovare in fiera anche se la signora che me l’ha venduto sembrava piuttosto scettica. Suppongo è stato possibile per via della qualità e della finezza della pelle - comprata sempre in fiera dallo stand di questi ragazzi purtroppo vendono pelle solo nelle fiere. Devo ringraziare Nicoletta del blog dinuvoledicuori che ha trovato lo stand - grazie Niko :)! Ho cucito i fiorellini usando la macchina da cucire e filo nero.


Vestito Cami


Vestito Cami




        Due parole sul cartamodello: lo adoro!

        RECAP
        C.M.: Vestito Camí di Pauline Alice Patterns.
        Tessuto: punto milano di viscosa, raso stretch di seta, tessuto da fodera per le tasche.
        Merceria: 6 bottoni di madre perla, fliselina, pelle.
        Mod: ho compensato per l’elasticità del tessuto, per la mia altezza e per le spalle avanti. Ho ridotto l’ampiezza della gonna, eliminato la chiusura lampo, abbellito il colletto e modificato la lunghezza.


Cami Dress


        Domanda veloce: dove pensate che potrei indossare questo vestito?



Grazie della visita. Mi piacerebbe moltissimo sentire la vostra opinione.

70 comments:

  1. Wow, the collar really makes the dress stand out! I really like the result! A simple and comfortable silhouette that is also stylish - my favourite kind of outfit :)

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    1. Thank you! and it's stretch so extra comfort ;)

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  2. This dress is awesome. its also really seasonal (at least in britain) coz the flowers look like remembrance poppys. and in response to your question...wear the dress EVERYWHERE :-)

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    1. Thank you Jennifer! I think northern Italy feels very much like Britain these days or at least what we imagine Britain to feel like!

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  3. Bellissimo io lo indosserei per qualsiasi occasione! il colletto impreziosito da questi fiorellini rossi è stupendo!

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    1. Grazie Sara, come sempre molto gentile!

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  4. The collar - it's quite simply amazing. What an inspired make!

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    1. Thank you Sew Busy Lizzy, I'm so glad you like it :) !

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  5. Wow! Bellissimo abito e ottima idea i fiori sul collo!

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  6. Wow, so chic! And that collar is fabulous, it finishes off this make perfectly :)

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    1. Thank you Jillian! the collar changes it completely!

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  7. Ma come fai per avere tante ottime idee?? Subis co completamente il fascino del tuo Camí! Questo collo é una vera meraviglia! Baci bella Sacha;)!

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    1. Tu es trop gentille Annie, mais je vais accepter ton beau compliment en rougissant de plaisir. Merci beaucoup :) xo

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  8. it's fantastic. - I love the slimmer fit of the ponte. Wear it everywhere!

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    1. Thank you Sarah ... it is slimmer isn't it!

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  9. Oh that collar! It is really something special. I'm a big fan of this pattern too, and now want to make it up in a knit!

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    1. Can't wait to see your knit version Kirsty,... the one in woven you made was sooo pretty !!!

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  10. wow, that collar is insanely cool, it really makes the dress! and i say - wear it everywhere! life is too short to wait for the special occasions to wear pretty dresses :)

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    1. ahhhhhhh..... if "wear a pretty dress everywhere cause life's too short" would be a religion you would definitely be one of its high priestesses ;) !!!

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  11. Bellissimo!!! Io l'ho visto indossato dal vivo e ti sta benissimo...quando ci siamo conosciute in fiera avevi su questo vestito! ;) Interessante anche la descrizione di come hai fatto il colletto, non sapevo che la pelle si tagliasse così facilmente con un punch per carta...utile a sapersi! ;) Il tuo colletto rosso è top!! :)

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    1. Grazie di cuore Martina!!! la pelle è stata anche abbastanza facile da tagliare sopratutto ai bordi del pezzo dove era più sottile...

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  12. Gorgeous dress! The collar and the satin accents make it look really expensive. So clever how you made those leather flowers too!

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    1. Thank you Lindsay! ... the flowers were a "try and see if it works" kinda thing - I'm glad they do :)

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  13. I would wear it anywhere and everywhere! it is not one of those dresses that screams 'for special occasions only'. You could certainly wear it to a party but I would wear it any day. It's practical yet feminine and elegant. I already told you how much I love it...I just have to repeat it!! I will keep in mind your removing fullness to the skirt when I make my own.

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    1. Thank you Silvia! I'm really happy with my fabric choice - the ponte is really low maintenance ... btw remember how everybody asked how I would wash it? I did, by hand -I was afraid to put it in the washing machine before even getting to photograph it ;) and did not even had to iron it! With ponte or other thick fabric reducing the fulness is a must in my opinion - especially if you're after a slimmer fit!

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  14. Wow! This looks so cool! It really looks like a designer garment! Wear it everywhere!!!

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    1. Mission accomplished then!!!! - I secretly wanted a "fancy" dress! Thank you Ginger!

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  15. Your version of the Cami dress is so amazing! Totally stylish and wearable in any occasion. Great work!

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    1. Thank you so much Hélène - I'm blushing like crazy here :))

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  16. This SO pretty, I don't even know what to say!! The pictures are perfect, they look like they came from a fancy lookbook. This is the best version of this pattern I've seen... Stunning!

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    1. Thank You!!!! I'm so pleased you said that - the lookbook bit especially, my lighting setup is so low cost! there is a picture of it on instagram... to that add the light you can see on one of the photos here (accent + washes the shadows cast by the main light) and that's all! It's not perfect but I guess it works ;)

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  17. It's so playful, it feels like a birthday party dress! How pretty and creative!

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    1. Thank you Sara ... now I wish I had a winter birthday!!!

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  18. Wow this is so unique and creative! And I love the background for the photo shoot!

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    1. Thank you so much Meg! white walls might be boring but they are useful and the artwork it's a small part of a 30 pieces installation I did :)

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  19. I like your indoor photos quite a bit. Maybe it's the white walls but I'm getting a museum vibe! Your dress is lovely but the collar is really speaking to me. I think you could wear this anywhere you like :)

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    1. I'm glad you think the collar was a good idea - thank you! museum vibe + me artist, I think I like the idea I only hope it's not dead artist ;)

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  20. Il vestito ti sta d'incanto!!! Se fossi in te, lo metterei tutti i giorni ;)
    E il colletto rosso è davvero il tocco in più, tutto nero non avrebbe fatto lo stesso effetto. Davvero brava!!

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    1. Grazie di cuore Tiz! non so perché ma al momento tutto nero mi faceva troppo funerale :(( e per niente LBD

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  21. great dress and super good punch. I have the same brand, as least the same look, punch that didn't work on either leather or pleather...yours work beautifully I see.

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    1. thanks Ada - maybe you do not have the same leather or maybe I was super lucky to get an extra sharp one ;)

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  22. Bellissimo l'abito e il colletto ! Direi che l'abito si presta ad essere indossato sia di giorno sia di sera e il tocco di rosso ti permette di giocare con gli accessori.
    Sabrina

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  23. What a fabulous dress! You have such an amazing eye for detail, that just elevates everything you make into something extraordinary. That collar is inspiring!

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    1. Thank you Danielle means a lot coming from you as I know you have a special eye for knits :)

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  24. Wow! This is a work of art! So I think you could wear it to a gallery!
    I'm really interested in how you combined two fabrics for the button band and the rest of the dress. As well as great inspiration, some things to think about for my next knit shirt dress! And the leather flowers are just dreamy. So pretty.

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    1. Ohhh thank you, what a beautiful compliment ... The original pattern has a folded button band that I eliminated leaving only one width and then used the same method they use in some polo shirts with woven plackets. I posted a close up on instagram for you...

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  25. What an amazing dress! I love the collar, it's such a nice touch (pretty and cleverly made!). You can wear this dress anywhere, you will looke fab!

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  26. Complimenti!!! Bellissimi dettagli , il colletto in particolare rendono il vestito così particolare e ricercato da differenziarsi davvero da tutti gli altri.
    Ti ho conosciuto su instagram grazie a abilmente, adesso curioserò in tutto il tuo blog per guardare tutti le tue realizzazioni.
    Complimenti ancora
    Roberta

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    1. Grazie di cure Roberta :D... spero il resto del mio blog non ti annoierà!!

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  27. I adore this dress, but that collar is BANGING! Does it mean you have to hand wash it? I am sorely tempted to steal your beautiful idea! x

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    1. Thank you Reana Louise! I'm so happy you like it! For now I only washed it by hand using Soak Wash because I did not feel adventurous enough to try to do in the washing machine (but lazy enough not to go to the cleaners) and risk ruining it before even photographing it. Apparently some Vogue editor machine washes and dries her leather jackets (at least this chick says so : http://editbydesign.com/2012/09/06/how-to-machine-wash-a-leather-jacket/) so I think sooner or later I will throw it in the washer ;)

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    2. Oooooh good luck! I am the laziest person ever & machine wash most things, so I'm with you on that!

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  28. bellissimo! se troppo brava *_*

    Vanessa Van
    http://vanessavanhandmade.blogspot.it

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  29. Ma e' bello bello bello!!! Ti sta bene bene bene!!!! Pure le tasche basse mi piacciono!! Il colletto e' davvero originale... Ma perché ti chiedi in che occasione metterlo??? Sempreeee

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    1. Grazie di cuore Simo ... sono molto contenta che ti piace! Un abbraccio forte XO

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  30. Vestito bellissimo da indossare...sempre!... per sentirsi speciale.
    E,d'altra parte, chi cuce non cerca questo?
    Bravissima.Rò

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    1. Grazie Rò! penso tu abbia proprio ragione: cucire ti fa sentire speciale!

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  31. Fantastica realizzazione soprattutto l'interpretazione e l'inventiva che hai avuto per fare il colletto, utilizzare un punch per carta, a volte bisogna ingegnarsi e provare anche se spesso è vero i commercianti ci guardano un po con faccia dubbiosa!!! Brava brava davvero ^_^!!!

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    1. Grazie Francesca... eh d'altronde questo è il bello provare cose nuove e sperimentare anche quando la gente ti guarda alzando un sopracciglio!!!

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  32. Just discovered your blog. Love your style! The color on this dress is genius!

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    1. Thank you :) ... your new blog looks very promising I'll be keeping an eye on it for sure!

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  33. I just discovered your blog and am totally in love with this dress. Stunning. Stupendo. Anzi, piu che stupendo. That collar. Wow.
    Have you tried clear elastic? It works wonders for keeping things stretchy but stable - wide necks, shoulders, but most of all, waists. I learnt from one stretch dress pattern to sew it, unstretched, to the bottom of the front and back bodice pieces, before seaming the sides - I think it was the lady skater dress - which didn't fit my body at all even though I used the right measurements etc - way too long in the bodice for me. Nice cut though, but could have done with some stabilising of the low-ish and wide back neck, in retrospect.... but I digress;). Anyway I then learnt from the moneta pattern to gather my skirt with elastic cut to the width of the bodice pieces. I looked at an old ASOS not dress and it had the same stuff there. It is amazing stuff - I can only find it online as it hasn't arrived in Malta yet, you may be luckier:). I can give you a couple of recent priced sources if you like...

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    1. omg I have no idea how I missed your comment!!! ... Thank you so much for your kind words! and so insightful!!! I used clear elastic at the shoulders I did not think about using it at the waist - the ponte is bulky enough and and the gathering at the skirt is... lets say a lot in fact I did reduce the fulness of the skirt by 30 cm - otherwise I could have never (not with my beginner skills anyway ;) managed to get that on. I tried using the elastic gathering method - with the elastic cut to the size of the bodice - stretched to the max my elastic was shorter than the skirt - arrrghhh - so I did it the old way with the 2 rows of stitching and string pulling ..... arrrghhh again ;)

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  34. Really stunning! I have a bunch of leather remnants that I've been storing, and I think I need to attempt to replicate your creative idea with different colors soon. I have a question: how did you remove the fullness from the skirt? Did you use a tutorial or book to do that? I've never attempted it. Bravo on your dress!

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  35. I love the collar! I have been looking to create a dress with similar pattern detail but was wondering what is the best way to do so! You helped a lot, thanks! I will give it a try! xx

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  36. I just want to say that all the information you have given here is awesome. Thank you
    fruit and vegetable washer

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